6070 S Sycamore St, Littleton, CO 80120 Open 24 hours · 7 days · (720) 640-0233
Open 24 hours · 7 days a week

Slab Leak Pipe Rerouting in Littleton, CO

Instead of breaking your floor, we run a new line through walls, ceilings or the attic and cap the failed pipe under the slab for good.

Since 2015Serving Littleton
3,600+Jobs completed
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Pipe reroute diagram: new water line run through the attic and walls bypassing the failed line under the slab New line through attic / wallsOld line under slab — capped & abandonedFixture Main

A slab leak reroute replaces the leaking section of pipe under your floor with a brand-new line run above it — through interior walls, the attic, a basement ceiling or crawl space. The old line under the concrete is cut off and capped, so it can never leak again. For many Littleton homes, especially those with older copper or tile and hardwood floors, it is the repair we recommend most often.

Why reroute instead of opening the slab?

Opening the slab fixes one hole. If the rest of the pipe is aging copper, the next leak may be a few feet away. Rerouting removes that whole run from under the concrete.

  • No concrete demolition over the leak, so tile, hardwood and cabinets stay put
  • Fixes the whole line, not just the current pinhole
  • Often comparable in price to a spot repair once flooring replacement is included
  • Easier to reach in future — new pipe is in walls and ceilings, not buried
Pipe reroute diagram: new water line run through the attic and walls bypassing the failed line under the slab New line through attic / wallsOld line under slab — capped & abandonedFixture Main
A reroute bypasses the failed line under the slab (red, dashed) with new pipe run overhead (blue).

How does a slab leak reroute work?

  1. Detect and confirm which line is leaking and where it runs.
  2. Plan the route. We map the shortest practical path from the supply to the fixtures through attic, walls or basement ceiling.
  3. Protect the home. Drop cloths, dust barriers and careful removal of small drywall sections.
  4. Run new pipe. We typically use PEX, which is flexible, freeze-tolerant and fast to install with fewer joints. Copper is available if you prefer it.
  5. Connect and cap. New lines are tied into the system and the old line under the slab is cut and capped.
  6. Pressure-test the new line before any wall is closed.
  7. Patch. Drywall openings are closed and left ready for paint.

Which homes are good candidates for a reroute?

SituationReroute?
Second or third slab leak on the same homeStrongly recommended
Leak under tile, hardwood or kitchen cabinetsUsually the better option
Two-story or split-level with accessible attic and wallsUsually simple
Hot-water line leak in an older copper homeOften recommended — hot lines fail first
Single leak in a basement under carpet, newer pipeA spot repair may be cheaper

PEX or copper for the new line?

PEX handles Colorado's freeze risk better, has fewer fittings and is quicker to install, which keeps cost down. Copper is a fine choice if you prefer it; it costs more in material and labor.

Will I see the new pipe?

Rarely. Most runs are hidden in walls and ceilings. In a finished basement we route through soffits or behind existing trim where possible.

Water bill climbing or a warm spot on the floor?

Every hour a slab leak runs, more water goes into the soil under your home. Call now and we'll send a technician with leak-locating gear, day or night.

How much does a slab leak reroute cost in Littleton?

JobTypical Littleton range
Reroute one short line (single fixture)$2,000 – $4,000
Reroute hot or cold main branch$3,500 – $6,500
Reroute both hot and cold branches$5,500 – $9,500
Drywall patchingOften included for small openings; ask for it in writing

Reroute vs. whole-house repipe

A reroute replaces one line or branch. If your home has had multiple leaks or the copper is corroded throughout, replacing all the supply lines at once is often the smarter money — see whole-house repiping.

Why do slab leaks happen in Littleton homes?

Littleton's housing stock tells most of the story. A large share of homes went up during the building boom of the 1960s through the 1980s, and many of them have copper water lines buried in or under a concrete floor — a basement slab, a garage slab, or the slab of a ranch or split-level that sits on grade. Newer subdivisions on the south and west sides were often plumbed with PEX, which fails differently but can still be damaged under concrete.

  • Expansive clay soil. Much of the Front Range sits on clay that swells when wet and shrinks when dry. That seasonal movement pushes and pulls on pipes locked in concrete, and fittings and bends take the strain first.
  • Abrasion. A copper line that rests against gravel, rebar or the edge of the slab vibrates every time water flows. Over decades it rubs a hole through its own wall.
  • Water chemistry and age. Pinhole corrosion from the inside is common in older copper. Once one pinhole appears, others along the same run often follow.
  • Freeze-thaw and construction defects. Lines that run near an exterior wall, a crawl-space transition or a poorly bedded trench are more exposed to stress.

How do reroutes differ by Littleton home style?

Where the new pipe can go depends on how your house is built. Here's what we typically see across Littleton:

Ranch with a basement

The easiest case. The basement ceiling, often unfinished in the utility area, gives an open path to almost any fixture on the main floor. If the basement is finished, we use soffits and joist bays and make small, neat openings.

Split-level and bi-level

Very common in 1960s and 1970s neighborhoods. Lines often pass through the lower-level slab to reach the kitchen or a half-bath. New pipe can usually go through the floor framing between levels, which keeps openings to a minimum.

Two-story with basement

Lines to upstairs bathrooms can come through interior walls. The attic is rarely needed, which helps in winter.

Slab-on-grade ranch or townhome

With no basement, the attic becomes the main route. We insulate attic runs carefully, because Colorado winters can freeze an uninsulated line overhead.

What we do to protect your home during a reroute

  • Plan openings in closets, behind appliances or in utility areas where possible
  • Cut drywall cleanly in rectangles that are simple to patch
  • Insulate any line in an exterior wall or attic
  • Label the new shutoffs so you know where they are
  • Leave a sketch of the new route for your records

Common reroute mistakes we avoid

  • Uninsulated attic runs that freeze the first cold snap
  • Undersized pipe that drops pressure at distant fixtures
  • Leaving the old line connected, so it can still leak
  • Skipping the pressure test before closing walls
Can you reroute in the winter?

Yes. We plan routes to stay inside the heated envelope where possible and insulate any line that can't.

Reroute timeline: what a typical day looks like

Morning: we confirm the route, protect floors and furniture, and make access openings. Midday: new pipe is run and secured, with insulation in any cold areas. Afternoon: we connect the new line, cap the old one under the slab, and pressure-test. End of day: water is restored and openings are ready for patching. Larger homes or both-line reroutes may roll into a second day.

How long does a rerouted line last?

New PEX or copper installed inside heated walls and ceilings is protected from the abrasion and soil movement that caused the original slab leak. With the old under-slab run abandoned, that section of plumbing is no longer at risk of leaking under the concrete.

Reroutes and Littleton building permits

Rerouting and repiping often require a plumbing permit and inspection, depending on the jurisdiction your address falls under — the City of Littleton, or Arapahoe, Jefferson or Douglas County. We check which applies to your home, pull the permit when required, and schedule the inspection before walls are closed. That protects you when you sell, and it means the work has been checked by someone other than us.

Pipe reroute FAQ

How long does a reroute take?

Most single-line reroutes are done in one day, sometimes two for larger homes or both hot and cold lines.

Do I need a permit?

Many Denver-area jurisdictions require a plumbing permit for reroutes and repipes. We tell you before the job whether one applies to your address.

Will a reroute lower my water pressure?

No — if sized correctly it can improve pressure, because new pipe has no internal corrosion or mineral buildup.

Is the old pipe left under the slab?

Yes, cut and capped. It holds no water, so it can't leak.

Will my insurance pay for a reroute?

Policies vary. Some cover access and repair costs up to a limit. We provide documentation for your claim.

Can you reroute just the hot line?

Yes. Hot lines fail most often, so rerouting only the hot side is common and costs less than doing both.

What if there's no attic access?

We route through interior walls, floor framing or a basement ceiling instead. Nearly every home has a workable path.

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